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CAMBODIA

Home of bustling cities, world wonders, and the world's kindest people.
Bayon - Siem Reap, Cambodia.jpg

Intro to Cambodia Backpacking

Hello: Sampeah/Susadei

Thank you: Akun

How are you: Soksabai

Currency and exchange rate (2018): $1=36 Cambodian riel

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Cultural notes:

  • Educate yourself about the recent history of the Khmer Rouge and the national genocide that occurred at its hands between 1975-1979. Doing so will give context to historical trips within the country but also contribute to the appreciation for the Cambodian spirit that exists today. A particular book I recommend is First They Killed My Father.

  • Like many Asian countries, Cambodians do not like losing face. Be sure not to criticize, embarrass, or expose anyone in public. Don’t demean the country. Humility is also an important attribute, politely deflect compliments or credit someone else. When offered a gift, politely refuse at first, then accept with both hands.

  • When seated, tuck your feet under you so they do not point at someone.

  • Do not use your left hand to hand something to someone. Pointing with your index finger is rude, instead gesture with your right palm with all the fingers straight.

  • Cambodians are conservative in dress and sexuality. They frown upon PDA. Be mindful in your contact with the opposite sex, even placing an arm around a local for a photo can be misinterpreted. 

  • Women should never touch or hand anything to a monk. If a monk is seated, sit below them before conversing. 

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The most widely-visited city in the country, Siem Reap is most notable for Angkor Wat, the eighth wonder of the world, and the surrounding temples.

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STAY: Anywhere near the night market area. The city gets ungodly hot and after a day of temple exploring you’ll probably want a cool down day. I recommend booking a place with with a pool.

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EAT:

  • Night market, the area by the night market has awesome Indian food

  • Crane - art gallery/quiet coffee shop

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DRINK: Pub Street

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TO DO:​

  • Rent road bikes or hire a tuk tuk driver for the day. Get a map or use Maps.me and visit all the notable temples and ruins of the area (my favorites included Ta Prohm and Bayon). To access Angkor Wat you will need to buy a ticket from the Angkor ticket office or from Angkor Enterprise (make sure your shoulders and knees are covered during purchase). You can buy different tickets depending on how much time you want to spend at the temple: 1 day, 3 days, or 7 days. I recommend buying your ticket in the evening after 5pm so that you can visit Angkor for sunrise the next morning (note: sunrise is the most crowded time of day so plan for an early morning to get a view among the crowds). On the same evening you can then view Angkor for sunset, though I recommend watching the sunset at the Srah Srang Lake.

  • Visit the floating villages on Tonle Sap Lake through an ethical tour company

  • Go souvenir shopping at Siem Reap Old Market

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Hot, dirty and congested, Phnom Penh was my least favorite city in Southeast Asia, but the museums and the context they provide make this city a must-see when in the country.

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STAY: Most backpackers will stay along the (now dried up) Boeng Kak Lake district, but there is also a lively night scene among expats and tourists along the Tonle Sap River. The difference is backpacker vs flashpacker budget.

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TO DO:

  • Take an audio tour of Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, where "enemies of the state" were kept during the Khmer Rouge rein

  • Take an audio tour of the Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, mass graves located about 40 minutes north of the city

  • ***Many people rent a tuk tuk for the day (~$15) and combine these sites, be aware that the scale of human atrocity you will witness at these sites can leave you emotional drained if doing so

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OTHER:​​

  • If you need a visa for Vietnam, visit Cina Travel (I got a next day visa for $52).

  • BEWARE OF THEFT...the crime rates are especially high here, do not walk around with loose bags. If driving in an open air tuk tuk, keep bags on your person and not lying on the seat or floor (the cab will also have netting for theft prevention). DO NOT WALK AROUND WITH YOUR PHONE OUT, motorbikes will often drive by and grab your phone out of your hand.

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My favorite spot in Cambodia, a laid-back city with good food, kind people and great opportunities for scooter excursions. Beware, you may want to stay for weeks.

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STAY: 

  • Titch's Place - one of the only hostels located on the river, popular choice for backpackers

  • High Tide - aptly named, a stoner hostel on the other side of the river. While far from downtown, scooter rentals make it an easy trip. You can also stay in a riverside hammock for $1/night.

  • Mad Monkey Hostel - party hostel chain, lots of planned events, close to downtown

  • Other options: Utopia, Olly's Place (free bicycles, windsurfing, kayaking, paddle-boarding rentals)

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EAT: 

  • Epic Arts Cafe - staffed by handicapped Cambodians and proceeds go to victims of landmine incidents, amazing breakfast and lunch foods 

  • Simple Things Cafe - little pricey but out of this world vegetarian food

  • Ecran noodles - homemade noodles

  • Kama cafe 

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TO DO: 

  • Rent scooters and drive around

    • Visit a pepper-growing plantation and the surrounding salt fields

    • Go to the beach in Kep (try not to wear bikinis here)

    • Drive the extremely fun and winding roads of Bokor mountain, there are some ruins at the summit but the developments on the mountain are an extremely strange Chinese real estate/casino venture and not worth lingering

    • Ecran cinema - you can rent a movie room with unlimited movie titles and they sell popcorn and snacks in the lobby

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I never made it here personally (remember the not wanting to leave Kampot thing?), but I've heard amazing things about the relaxed island vibes.

  • Described as the more affordable, less developed Thai islands

  • Limited resources - no ATMs (load up on cash before boarding the ferry), unreliable wifi, electricity is often shut off in the afternoons and between 2am-8am

  • Access via ferry from Sihanoukville

Cambodia Destination Guides

Bayon - Siem Reap, Cambodia.jpg
Ta Prohm, Cambodia.jpg
Not knowing what to do with my hands in

SIEM REAP

PHNOM PENH

KAMPOT

Sunset wild.jpg
Some Chinese tourist who made me take a
Among the pepper plants_Kampot, Cambodia

KOH RONG SANLOEM

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