Good morning/afternoon/night: Selamat pagi/petang/malam

Thank you: Terimah kasih

You’re welcome: Sama-sama 

Currency and exchange rate (2018): $1=4 Malaysian ringgit

Climate: 

• East coast: dry season is from November to March, wet season is from April to October

• West coast: dry season is from April to September, wet season is from November to February

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Cultural Notes:

• Malaysia is a primarily Muslim country (60% of the population), meaning dress is conservative and alcohol is expensive or unavailable in some places. Err on the side of skin coverage (sleeves and longer pants, no belly exposed) and be sure to remove footwear before stepping into matted areas as they believe the soles of the shoes are unclean. If you do want to purchase beer, you will find it only at licensed stores.

• Avoid public displays of affection (holding hands is okay, kissing is not) and do not draw attention to yourself (making a scene, public drunkenness). 

• The taxis here are awful as far as fair taxi fare. Stick to public transport and Grab when you can.

• Some parts of Malaysia, usually in largely Muslim areas, western women may experience catcalls, staring and lewd gestures, despite following local dress code. Though nothing dangerous, it is something to be aware of. If you are uncomfortable with this, speak about areas to avoid with local women.

• During Ramadan, restaurants and shops may be closed during the day.

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Many backpackers use this city strictly as a convenient travel hub, disliking the crowds and lack of activities (other than shopping). However, find a local guide or focus more on the intricacies of the multicultural melting pot (food, architecture, more food), and you'll find that the capital has more to offer than boutiques and tourism.

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GETTING THERE: take the high speed train (cheap and air conditioned)​

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GETTING AROUND: the LRT is the easiest and cheapest option, many people speak English and can help you navigate the stops ​

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STAY: I had stayed with a friend in the city but most backpacker hostels are found in Chinatown or Bukit Bintang

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EAT: One of the top three favorite cuisines of my travels. Malaysia is a cultural mix of Malay, Chinese, and Indian...no specific recommendations but some recommendations include:

• Nasi lemak - coconut milk rice, served with sambal, fried crispy anchovies, toasted peanuts and cucumber

• Roti canai - Indian flatbread eaten with dosa or curry

• Nasi campur

• Rendang

• Laksa - spicy noodle soup

• Semur terong

• Dosas

• **Your cheapest options will be corner cafes, where you can get roti for 30 cents. Indian restaurants will usually be plentiful in vegetarian and vegan foods (a personal favorite is banana leaves which will include rice and up to ten side curries and sauces for under $7).

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DRINK: 

• Teh tarik - tea made with condensed milk (beware if you have a sugar tooth like me)

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TO DO:​

• Eat your way around Chinatown

• Visit the Petronas towers and then marvel at the colonial architecture of Merdeka Square

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A speedboat ride off the Eastern coast, these islands are the perfect getaway from mainland congestion. Marine life, diving, and limited luxury means a whole lotta beach time. **If you are not a diver or snorkeler, there are not many activities available.

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GETTING THERE: Take a speedboat from Kuala Besut. There are two island stops, Perhentian Kecil (the cheaper, backpacker island) and Perhentian Besar (the family island). If arriving from Kuala Lumpur via bus, make sure you get to Kuala Besut in time for the last boat. When I was traveling this was 4:30pm.

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STAY: 

• The easiest way to find accommodation is just wandering when you arrive. If you are diving, ask if your shop has an attached dorm.

• Beach chalets are available on both sides of the island, though Long Beach is more popular than Coral Beach (15 minute walk between the two sides)

• Long beach recommendation: Panorama Chalets

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DRINK: At night small bars will open on the beach, the cheapest option is to buy a bottle and mixers from the bar and split with some friends. Keep your items close to you as I had my Chacos stolen one night (R.I.P).

 

TO DO:

• Dive (the cheapest agency I found was Turtle Bay Divers)

• Visit secret beaches near Coral Beach (find trails via Maps.me)

• Go snorkeling

• Watch a movie and fire show at Ombak Dive Resort

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Colonial architecture, a maze of street art, and an abundance of restaurants make Georgetown a favorite city for foodies, urban art lovers and architecture-enthusiasts alike.

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EAT:

• Thali NR Sweets (Indian)

• Madras New Woodlands (Indian)

• Vegetarian Buffet 5RND (search this name on Maps.Me)

• Wholey Wonder Vegan Restaurant (next to Hin Bus Depot)

• VR Pinxin Vegan

• Junk Cafe

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TO DO:

• Navigate the street art via Maps.Me

• Visit art galleries

• Visit the art market at Hin Bus Depot Art Center

• Watch live music at Chinahouse (expensive) or Narrow Marrow

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While it is known as a party city among backpackers, Vang Vieng has remarketed itself as an eco-tourism capital, offering hikes, lagoons, mountain biking and kayaking within biking distance of the city.

 

STAY: 

• Map Travelodge

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TO DO:

• Hiking - There are 12 different trails (I did trail 1 to Mount Brinchang which was a fun mix of jungle and tea plantation viewing). As the trails require a taxi to get to the trailheads, I recommend finding some friends to hike / split taxi fares with.

• Visit the surrounding tea plantations via hiking, taxi, or guided tour

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A 100,000 acre jungle full of treks, rafting and exotic wildlife.

 

WARNING: 

• If you are jungle trekking be wary of what time of year you visit, between leeches and rain your experience could be less than pleasant

• Entering the park requires a permit and camera fee, but the cost is (apparently) worth the reward

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I didn’t make it to Borneo on this trip but southeastasiabacker.com has good information, specifically on Sarawak (national parks, orangutan sanctuaries) and Sabah (world-class diving).

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