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MEXICO

My favorite country in all my travels, this is a land of Mayan ruins, mouthwatering food, white sand beaches, colorful colonial streets, and, abound with music and smiling faces, a pervading sense of all things joyous.
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Intro to Mexico Backpacking

Hello: Hola

Thank you: Gracias

Currency and exchange rate (2018): $1=19 Mexican pesos

Climate: â€‹Be prepared for all weather, ranging from tropical rainforest to cold semi-arid to desert temperatures

Times to visit: 

  • The ideal time to visit is during dry season, between November and April

  • For a cultural trip consider visiting during Día de Muertos, celebrated in southern and central Mexico

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As one of the ten most populated cities in the world, the traffic and sprawl of Mexico City can make for an intimidating introduction to the country. However, this is a city of complexities and in time all that overwhelms gives way to enchantment. This is a capital of endless restaurants and street food, 150 museums (the second highest number in the world, most of which are free), day trips to pre-Hispanic pyramids, and an efficient public transportation system connecting neighborhoods of colonial architecture and pocketed culture. In fact, I would say this is the perfect introduction to all that Mexico has in store.

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GETTING AROUND: The easiest and cheapest way around the city is via the metro system. The “bus/metro” button of Google Maps can help you navigate the lines you will need to take. When traveling between cities, book vans through your hostel or use the bus system “ADO.”

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EAT:

  • Any street food hole in the wall / stand there are locals...you can usually eat for under $2

  • Tostadas Coyoacan - the best tostadas of our trip; look for the yellow awning in the market

  • Mercado Roma - hipster central; a covered market filled with little food counters from some of Mexico City’s most popular restaurants and cafes

  • El Parnita

  • Vegetarian/vegan:

    • Casa Quimera

    • La Pitahaya Vegana

    • Forever Vegano

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TO DO:​

  • Museums:

    • Museo Nacional de Antropologia - one of the best anthropological museums in the world and a good introduction to the diversity of Mexican heritage and culture

    • Museo de Arte Popular - small museum space featuring handcrafts and folk art

    • Museo de Arte Moderno - contemporary art museum

    • Jumex Museum

    • Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo

    • Museo Dolores Olmedo Patino

  • Sightseeing:

    • El Zocalo - the main square of the city, lots of food and shopping options surrounding

    • Sagrario Metropolitano - located in the Zocalo, free entry

    • Teotihuacan - Mayan ruins about an hour from the city; half a day trip

  • Attend a luchador fight at one of the major stadiums (consult a local about which stadiums are in safe neighborhoods)

  • Neighborhoods:

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A nice relief from the busyness that is Mexico City, Puebla features cobblestone streets, brightly colored buildings and quaint, tree-lined neighborhoods.

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STAY: 

  • Posada Vee Yuu - includes free breakfast and organized tours

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EAT:

  • La Poblanita - authentic cemitas and the best late night food around for tostadas (get the bbq chicken)  and molotes

  • Antojitos Acapulco - competitor for the best late night food around for tostadas and molotes (right next door)

  • Vittorio’s - Italian food on the Zocalo

  • El Rincon de Tacotlan (vegan)

 

TO DO:

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A vibrant, colorful hub featuring colonial-style buildings and famous for its mezcal and cheese (did someone say drunk and bloated?)

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STAY:

  • Casa Angel Youth Hostel - activities such as salsa lessons and free bbqs, big rooftop patio, and nice private rooms

  • Iguana Hostel - rooftop bar and lounge with hammocks

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EAT:

  • Calabacitas tiernas - our favorite restaurant in the city, lots of vegan and vegetarian options

  • Late night snacking at Tlayudas Libres

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TO DO:

  • Monte Alban - my favorite of the Mayan ruins in the region

  • Visit Hierve del Agua - natural rock formations that look like falling water (described as a petrified waterfall). I skipped this because the destination seemed overrun with Instagram models

  • Visit Mercado Benito Juarez and Mercado de Artesanias for cheap souvenirs

  • Explore local music at the downtown bars

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Off the tourist trail, experience one night in the magic mushroom capital of Mexico where you will experience mountain solitude and the best sunset in the country.

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GETTING THERE: Three hours from Oaxaca, take a shuttle/minivan from the city center. Be warned: the winding mountain roads are not for the motion sickness prone.

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STAY: 

  • La Cumbre - a hike from the van stop, this is the nicest backpacking digs in the town, albeit a series of shacks and mismatched cabins

    • Notes:

      • there is a restaurant here that will have better food options than in town

      • there is no way to book a room ahead of time but there is always vacancy (a private room will cost ~$8/night)

  • Private cottages are also available to rent just outside the town center

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TO DO:

  • A secluded mountain town, the reason for coming here is for spirituality and psychedelics. I recommend asking the front desk of the hostel if you are going to take shrooms/shroom tea (though they will be more expensive than finding them in town, you can be sure of the quality and don’t have to wander around asking)

  • Go behind the hostel into the woods where you will find hiking trails

  • Experience a tamazcal at Casa de Paco - an indigenous natural healing (sweat box/sauna) ceremony

  • The best views are at La Cumbre itself (make sure you get back in time for sunset and pack warm clothes and plenty of bottled water)

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Beach time! We loved it here...ended up spending a week and could have spent longer had it not been so hot. Worth it for the surfing and fresh fish tacos alone.

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STAY:

  • Tower Bridge - organized trucks to the beaches, pool, hostel bar...only problem is how far away it is from everything and how loud it gets at night

  • Hostal Akumal - awesome location just two blocks from Playa Zicatella, quiet, we ended up spending the rest of our time in a private room here and preferred the location

  • Casa Losodeli

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EAT:

  • There’s a large, fenced taco spot near “Tower Bridge Hostel” that does 7 tacos for 35 pesos and they’re unreal...find it

  • Pinchas Taco

  • El Sultan - the best Israeli food on our travels

  • Ask for the “oyster man” on Playa Carrizalillio (marked on Maps.me)

  • Cafe Ole - especially for breakfast

  • Coconuts from the general store on the corner by Hostal Akumal

  • There’s a tiny restaurant on the way to the restaurant strip by Hostal Akumal - on the left side of the road, run by a drunk Mexican woman...her fish tacos are the best

  • Lychee Thai Food

  • El Cafecito Carmen - classic Mexican food

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TO DO: 

  • Take a surf lesson

  • Suntan on the beaches:

    • Playa Coral  - hidden beach

    • Playa Carrizalillio - beginning surfer beach)

    • Playa Zicatella

  • Go on a nighttime bioluminescent tour (swimming with bioluminescent plankton)...aim for doing this during a new moon

  • Visit Mazunte and Zipolite

    • The beaches are worth a visit but staying and eating here will be more expensive and the vibe more touristy because of its reputation as a "hippy destination"

  • Watch the sunset at La Punta Cometa

  • Do a morning whale / dolphin watching tour

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My favorite city in Mexico...even though it requires a night bus ride. Lots of food options, opportunities for cultural activities, easy access to nature, and a laid-back vibe make you fall easily into the city's flow.

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STAY:

  • Puerta Vieja Hostel - my favorite hostel we stayed at in Mexico; organized tours, ping pong table, free alcohol almost every day, awesome backyard patio and bar, great opportunities to meet people

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EAT:

  • El Caldero - Tyler’s favorite restaurant in Mexico (he went five meals in a row), soups and stews

  • Cocoliche - my favorite restaurant in the city, lots of vegetarian options

  • Frontera - nice coffee shop, awesome green chilaquiles 

  • Te Quiero Verde

  • La Vina de Bacco - tapas bar with wine deals everyday

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TO DO: 

  • Take a boat tour of Canon Sumidero - tours can be organized through most hostels

  • Visit El Chiflon waterfall - opt for your own transport to this waterfall rather than a full day tour around the region (you will wish you had more time at the waterfall)

  • Visit the churches

    • Iglesia de San Cristobal​

    • Iglesia de Guadalupe

    • Templo Santo Domingo

  • Take a walking tour of the city, either on an organized tour or by wandering the streets yourself

  • Take a coffee tour of the region

  • Hike to the scenic viewpoints of the city

  • Throw a Frisbee / go for a run at the Sports Complex (search Terra Bike Shop in Maps.Me...right next to that)

  • Or if you're feeling particularly antsy for new culture, take a bus from here into Guatemala

 

 

 

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The “true jungle”...Mayan ruin exploring and howler-monkeys abound. 

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GETTING THERE: Take a bus or van to Palenque and then a taxi into El Panchan.

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STAY:

  • Palenque is very much a city, with the associated congestion, heat, crime, and busyness. Opt to stay closer to the archaeological site.

  • Margarita y Ed - you can call or email ahead of time to make a reservation, private rooms are cheap and centrally located

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EAT:

  • Don Mucho’s - surprisingly good Italian food and cheap breakfast, last I was there they accepted cards

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TO DO: 

  • Prior to visiting the ruins, visit the Museo del Sitio Palenque (also because tours are too expensive this will provide some context)

  • Hike the woods and visit the Palacio complex

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WARNING: If you have to go into Palenque, but cautious as you would in any large city. We had a phone pickpocketed while at lunch.

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Hard to access and fairly unknown to many locals. While we didn’t think the coordination it took to get there was worth it, here is one review from a friend:

 

“It’s the biggest Maya city in Mexico and only discovered like 30 years ago. It’s super remote and hard to get there but this place gives you the best Maya experience you can get. This is a MUST really. You see more monkeys than people there and the city is huuuuuge. It only takes some time to get there but it’s so worth it. You will have to stay in Xpujil, the closest village. From the village it’s still a 2.5 hour ride. Do this, you won’t regret it.”

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Commence the tourism side of Mexico. We loved Tulum and ended up staying for a week or so between diving adventures and beach hanging but this as you enter the Yucatan Peninsula, you will have to tread further to find authentic cultural experiences.

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STAY:

  • Day Tripper Hostel

  • Cha Cha Cha Hostel

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EAT:

  • A ton of taco / burrito stands set up near the Oxxo near Daytripper Hostel every night...find the guy who makes burritos and used to work in Vegas and eat the special sauce

  • There’s also a fried chicken restaurant right near Daytripper that Tyler loved

  • El Camello Jr. - huge portions of ceviche

  • La Hoja Verde - vegetarian

  • Del Cielo - nice but expensive

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TO DO: 

  • Dive the cenotes - underground limestone caverns, some of the coolest diving I have ever done

  • To get certified / for cheap dives: Easy Chango

  • Favorite dives:

    • Dos Ojos - a dive famous for its stalactite and stalagmite formations

    • Angelito (requires advanced open water certification) - a truly disorienting experience, this cenote is famous for the underground compost pile that, decomposing anaerobically, creates a suspended haze underwater

  • Buy a day pass and swim / snorkel in the cenotes

  • Rent bikes and head to the beach

  • Souvenir shopping (cheaper than in Cancun)

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TO GO FROM HERE:​

  • Isla Mujeres - A ferry ride away and something else to do but built around tourism. Think fedora-clad bros driving golf carts around a tiny island

  • Isla Holbox - Harder to access than Isla Mujeres, this island is less visited and there are seasons to dive sustainably with whale sharks 

  • Experience world class diving on Cozumel

  • Cancun - Honestly, I wouldn't recommend this place to my enemies but it does offer the cheapest flights out and into eastern Mexico. For housing and food, there are endless options (many westernized) and there is a certain amount of comfort for some being in a resort-centered city. For a country so blessed with authenticity and culture, however, I recommend your lasting impressions to be of something other than sunbathing Americans.

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Mexico Destination Guides

MEXICO CITY

OAXACA CITY

SAN JUAN DEL PACIFICO

PUEBLA

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PUERTO ESCONDIDO

SAN CRISTOBAL DE

LAS CASAS

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PALENQUE - El Panchan

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CALAKMUL

TULUM

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